Archive for June, 2009
The History of The Zenith El Primero Movement
In the same year the Apollo 11 made history by putting the first man on the moon, a Swiss watch manufacturer launched a movement that would forever change the face of horology. One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.” These are the now-legendary words spoken by astronaut Neil Armstrong, as he took his first steps onto the lonely transcendent surface of the moon in July 1969. It was a moment that symbolized the United States’ titular victory in the US-Soviet Space Race, which had begun in 1957 when the Soviet Union became the first nation to launch a satellite — Sputnik I — into space.
The entry of Sputnik into the previously unassailed realm of space was a shot across the bow, a moment of profound humiliation, and a call to technical arms for the United States. Despite its best efforts from that point onwards, the Soviet Union took a definitive lead in the Space Race, becoming the first nation to send a man into space and, again, the first to send a probe to the moon. This triple-tap of scientific triumph had the United States reeling against the rope like Muhammad Ali in Zaire… By 1961, both nations had set their eyes on sending a man to the surface of that celestial bod)’that prevailed insouciant and majestic in the night sky. Then President John F. Kennedy stated. “No single space project in this period will be more impressive to mankind… And none will be so difficult or expensive to accomplish.” Indeed, what resulted was a maelstrom of scientific achievement and human daring that has never been replicated in history.
Armstrong’s lunar landing in July 1969 was a culmination of the hopes and dreams of a nation — a moment of redemption and total victory. Just six months before, another revelatory achievement had similarly embodied the hopes of a nation and culminated in a moment of total undeniable victory: Zenith’s creation of the world’s first automatic chronograph, the El Primero, became a testament to Switzerland’s enduring dominance in watchmaking at a time when watchmaking in Japan was beginning to gain momentum. And like the lunar landing achieved by the US, it encompassed a frenzy in scientific achievement and a blistering development pace that had been heretofore unknown.
Zenith began its ambitious project to create an automatic chronograph caliber in 1962 - - a caliber which they named ” HI Primero” for its status as the first of its kind. While the Swiss movement manufacture Lemania had experimented with automatic chronographs as early as 1946, this caliber was never successfully industrialized. The Zenith project is believed to have been initially considered for Zenith’s lOOth anniversary in 1965, but as more technical features were added, it became clear that development would take longer than this. Then, around 1967, Zenith caught wind of a simultaneous project with the same goal undertaken by Breitling, Hamilton-Buren, Heuer and Dubois Depraz. Simultaneously, word had spread of a
Japanese automatic chronograph caliber with a vertical clutch coupling system undertaken by Seiko. Determined to be the first to the finish, Zenith ramped up its development schedule, and the race was on. The inking chronograph had been created in 1822 by Nicolas-Mathieu Rieussec which, as its name implied, literally recorded time by inking a dial. At the dawn of the Industrial Revolution, the chronograph watch became one of the dominant types of wristwatches because of its ability to record elapsed time — as horse races gave way to modern automobile races, the chronograph became more popular, for it possessed an immense number of sporting and scientific applications. In the early 2Oth century, the chronograph became inextricably linked with science, sports and adventure.
A chronograph on the wrist instantly endowed the wearer with a rakish, adventurous air. While there had been many achievements in the development of the chronograph, such as the transition from a monopusher configuration to independent stop/start and reset pushers thanks to Breitling, by the second half of the 2Oth century, still, no one had created an automatic chronograph. But there was now, looming on the horizon, a huge incentive to create such a movement. In 1969, the Japanese company Seiko would unveil its Quartz-Astron 3SSQ, and Longines, its Ultraquartz Cybernetic — both based on principles first invented by Warren Morrison in the 1920s. Already, the industry had caught wind of the quartz movements — soulless battery-powered machines that could last for years without being wound, yet achieve unprecedented levels of accuracy.
The Swiss industry had to react for the implications of a cpiartz chronograph would shake the very foundations of Swiss timekeeping dominance. However, until this time, no one had successfully created an automatic chronograph, offering the ability to capture elapsed time that was fused with the practicality of a self¬winding caliber. In 1969, both Zenith, as well as the joint project by Breitling, Hamilton-Buren, Heuer and Dubois Depraz, unveiled automatic timewriters. But in all objectivity, the achievement by Zenith’s competitors was inferior in architecture.
Why? Because it consisted of a modular chronograph in which an automatic base caliber is mated to a module containing the chronograph functions. Why is this inferior to the integrated chronograph design of Zenith’s movement? Well, for two reasons: First, the modular design robbed the owner of watching the clutch system of the chronograph gear work switch on and off, which is one of the most delightful visual arias in chorology. In the modular design, the chronograph mechanism is sandwiched between the dial and the base caliber. Unlike its competitors, the 1969 El Primero movement, which is the direct predecessor to modern El Primero calibers, was created as an integrated movement — that is to say, it was created from the ground up as an automatic chronograph caliber. Thus, it offered certain advantages. A) Barrel (the watch’s fuel tank) Despite beating faster than any other commercially produced watch movement, the El Primero still has enough “gas” for more than 50 hours of power reserve. B) Escapement (a wheel that is like a tap that turns on and off the power supply to the balance at regular intervals) — The El Primero chronograph boasts the world’s fastest beating escape wheel. When it was created, special lubrication had been made specifically to cope with the watch’s high vibrational speed. C) Column wheel (the command center for all chronographs and the mark of distinction for all high end chronographs) This wheel rotates when the pushers are activated, allowing the fingers of the chronograph coupling arm to rest either on, or between the columns, resulting in either the chronograph engaging or disengaging. D) Balance wheel (the heart of the watch where its to-and-fro oscillations regulate the watch’s heartbeat) Zenith’s balance wheel swings faster than any other and divides time into small fractions.
The second reason for the superiority of the El Primero’s design is that a very large number of modular chronographs exhibit some idiosyncratic jumping of the hour, minute or seconds hand when the chronograph is rapidly switched on or off in succession — very possibly because they are harnessing the energy of a base caliber that was never intended to accept the load of an additional chronograph train. A comparison would be the utilization of a four-cylinder engine to suddenly power the two additional wheels of a four wheel-drive vehicle. Conversely, Zenith’s chronograph caliber is an integrated movement. The base plate of the movement (which acts like the frame of a car) is designed from the ground up to support a base caliber, as well as a chronograph train. The base caliber, from its large power supply to its record setting vibrational speed, is created to enable optimal chronograph performance.
How did Zenith create the El Primero? In a move not unlike the US co -option of German rocket scientists. Zenith purchased and absorbed a company named Martel that specialized in chronographs. But Martet did not have expertise in creating automatic winding systems, so the implementation of this in the El Primero can be credited to Zenith’s R&rl) team. In the process of developing its new chronograph caliber, Zenith decided to boost performance to an all -new level and achieve another benchmark in the advancement of horology. It would endeavor to create the first industrialized wristwateh that ran at 36,000 vph or 5 Hz. At this speed, the chronograph would be capable of dividing time to a never before -realized 1/IOth of a second. While many other watch manufactures have tried but failed to achieve this end, Zenithwas determined to succeed.
By implementing an escapement that ran at this speed, the El Primero would represent two mighty world’s firsts: the first integrated automatic chronograph, the first watch to run at 36,000 vph and the world’s fastest-beating watch movement. While its one motivation was certainly to create an intimidating technical gap between itself and its competitors, for Zenith, this unprecedented accuracy was also a pre-emptive strike at quartz technology. A faster vibrational speed also means a more stable wristwatch. To this day, watch engineers still discuss the merits of elevated vibrational speeds relative to large inertia balance wheels; but by common consensus, what is clear is that faster vibrational speeds offer greater stability, which is precisely why today’s companies, such as Chopard L.U.C, Ulysse Nardin and Audemars Piguet Renaud !& Papi, are in the process of experimenting with faster vibrational ’speeds. At the searingly fast S~hz vibrational speed found in the El Primero, the watch’s regulating organ achieves greater autonomy from outside perturbations, such as changes in position or shocks.
This high vibrational speed also serves to enable greater accuracy in Zenith’s tourbillons, as the balance wheel has greater automony from pertubations caused by movement or even small jolts commonly experienced in wristwatches. Similarly, a perpetual calendar’s movement experiences a certain load when all calendar indicators are powered by the movement to turn over at midnight. A movement with a higher vibrational speed will, theoretically, experience less drop in amplitude during this critical changeover period. The Zenith El Primero movement forms the base of all complicated Zenith waches, the world timer, perpetual calendar, forthcoming minute repeater and now-famous fast-beating tourbillon. The ancient warrior poet Sun Tzu believed that speed was the essence of victory in battle. Hence, in the battle of chronometric excellence across all applications, speed is similarly the key. But sustaining this speed was akin to smashing through the sound barrier, in that without adequate scientific development, it could result in disaster.
Excessive wear on escapement components was of major concern to the manufacture. It was quickly determined that traditional lubrication methods were inadequate, and a special new type of dry lubrication had to be created specifically for the El Primero. While many watch technicians have opined as to the amount of wear created by a movement that beats as fast as the El Primero — these same concerns propelled Rolex to detune the El Primero movements in its Daytona watches to 38,800 vph — in the end, history speaks for itself. Since its introduction, the El Primero has proven itself to be not just the most accurate industrialized wristwatch chronograph movement on the planet, but also a workhorse — a watch industry honorarium that describes a caliber that functions day in and day out, with little need for maintenance. When it was launched in January 1969, a full two months ahead of the modular chronograph created by its competitors, Zenith unveiled the most advanced movement of its era.
At the same time, the movement was a celebration of classic Swiss watchmaking, retaining the high-end imperialism of a column wheel controlling all chronograph functions — even as its competitors began to dispose of this costly component for cheaper switching cams. It would retain the traditionally laterally coupled clutch, while others embraced inferior oscillating pinions or vertical clutches that could not be serviced. Zenith would refrain from using plastic components as evinced in Valjoux’s 7750 or Lemania’s 5100 movements. The El Primero was, in dimension, far thinner than the modular chronograph of its competitors and achieved a mind-blowing 50 hours of power reserve despite its dizzying frequency. In fact, it would be more than a decade before Frederic Piguet would achieve a thinner movement — albeit one fraught with some initial fragility.
Today, Zenith’s El Primero continues to be the sole chronograph movement that is capable of dividing time accurately to 1/ioth of a second. Look into the aperture of Zenith’s ChronoMaster Open, which reveals an escapement mounted onto the first skeleton bridges ever integrated into a movement’s base plate, and you’ll witness more than a simple division of seconds, but the living testament to the vast heroism of a brand that stepped irrevocably outside of the box to write a new chapter in watchmaking history!. High quality Zenith El Primero replica watches are available at www.thewatchprofessionals.com
AUDEMARS PIGUET DESIGNS ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH FOR F1 RACING LEGEND
Formula One racing is special. At the very pinnacle of motor racing, it is the single minded pursuit of ruthlessly pared down objectives to the very extreme: mainly, driver survivability and performance. Not so much the brute performance of fantastical machines rigged to break land-speed records, but insanely agile machines that blip from rest to 100kph in two seconds, powering on to 160kph and coming to a full stop in five; or whipping around corners with such violence as to subject car and driver to G-forces akin to those experienced by fighter pilots. So keenly is F1 racing balanced on the knife edge between sport and suicide, that F1 cars, and necessarily the men who drive them, are nothing like the ones we encounter on public roads, even if there has been a steady migration of F1-derived technologies towards improving the conventional road car, and too many drivers who ape their F1 idols in everyday driving. Indeed, the gulf is appreciable: as F1 cars are a different breed, so are the men who drive them for a living, somewhat special. In particular, Rubens Barrichello is more special than most. While the world of F1 has been rocked lately by Lewis Hamilton, the brightest new start in F1 in a long time, who very nearly achieved the unthinkable, of winning the driver’s championship in his rookie season, it is Rubens Barrichello, quietly going the distance, who commands a deeper appreciation, like an exquisite drink with a long finish. He is the most experienced F1 driver on the grid, with 15 years in the business—and that is not counting his highly successful pre-F1 racing career, in some seasons, racing with his father’s driving license because he was simply under aged. His has been a terrific F1 career which has seen him ranked five times among the top five in the world championship, with two runner up titles in 2002 and 2004 while driving for Ferrari with Michael Schumacher, 61 podium finishes, 510 points, nine wins and 13 pole positions, though a driver’s championship still eludes him.In the hyper-competitive world of F1 racing, where fractions of a second can mean the difference between victory, defeat or disaster, it takes extreme resilience to stay this long in the running, because just as every component in an F1 car must perform at the highest level while taking tremendous punishment in every race, so is the driver under extreme physical strain and mental pressure.
The driver’s instinct, the daredevil’s nerve and the athlete’s focus and resilience—there is no instant that these must be allowed to lapse. In this light, Rubens Barrichello’s demonstrated staying power in such a punishing sport is nothing short of phenomenal. But this is not all: Barrichello is also the only link left on the grid to a bygone era of F1 racing, as the sole F1 driver who has raced against Ayrton Senna and Alain Proust. This May, in Turkey, Rubens clocked the 257th start of his F1 career, beating Riccardo Patrese’s 256 races, a record that stood for 14 years. To mark this achievement, Audemars Piguet presented Rubens Barrichello with a unique Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello Chronograph in Istanbul, which is also where the first Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello was launched in 2006.
The one-off Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello Chronograph is not so different from the earlier watch, powered by the same caliber 2326/2840 self-winding chronograph movement, and it remains a motorsport-inspired rendition of the Royal Oak Offshore, one of the most powerfully masculine yet suitably refined men’s chronographs on the market. In a red gold case and ceramic bezel to best protect the watch for knocks and scratches, racing-inspired design details include eight bezel stress screws reminiscent of engine screws, the bezel joint designed in the image of a ventilated disc brake, strap attachments in the shape of pedals, a fluted crown in titanium with ceramic insert akin to the gear cog and ceramic push-pieces in the form of air extractors.
In addition, complementing the engraved caseback is a ceramic medallion bearing the inscription “R. Barrichello – 257 – New Grand Prix Record.” Indeed, congratulations Mr. Barrichello and Godspeed—may you take the championship and may Audemars Piguet fashion a new watch to celebrate it.
BVLGARI WATCH UPDATE: THE DIAGONO TOURBILLON
BVLGARI WATCH UPDATE: Bvlgari continues on the path of reinvention in the watchmaking sector through its vertical integration strategy and the Diagono tourbillon is solid proof of its success. All roads lead to Rome,” the proverb goes. Though there maybe countless paths that give rise to the same goal or conclusion, the Rome-based House of Bvlgari has reinforced its aim of fortifying the in-house manufacture of watch components with inimitable grace and elegance, to attain a full-year turnover of 1,093.3 million euros in 2007, an increase of 13.7 percent compared to 2OO6, with its watch category achieving an 8.2 percent increase. We discover a purposeful strategy of vertical integration in its watchmaking savoir-faire, a journey that began in 200O with the acquisition of Gerald Genta S.A., Daniel Roth S.A. and Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie S.A. (now consolidated into Daniel Roth et Gerald Genta Haute Horlogerie S.A., where the objective of underpinning the internal production of manufacture movements continues) specializing in high-end complicated movements, followed by the partial purchase of dial maker Cadrans Design S.A., and steel and precious metal bracelet maker Prestige d’Or in 20O5, and finally the acquisition of sophisticated case maker Finger in 2007.
The Bvlgari Diagono Tourbillon is the perfect manifestation of the immense expertise concealed on the premises of these four specialized yet complementary companies, as well as the first example of the incorporation of a Finger case for a Bvlgari watch. So come with us on an exploration of the creative and manufacturing processes of this fully internally made timepiece, which follows on the in-house tradition set in motion in 2004 by the presentation of the first grande complications watch entirely conceived and produced by the Bvulgari Group. We find ourselves face to face with a dual yet non-conflicting universe, where Italian design culture has progressively united with Swiss horological culture, thereby giving legitimacy to Bvlgari’s watch sector as it gains independence in production and moves up the ladder in terms of the world of mechanical haute horlogerie.
Rather than group the companies together in a single location, Bvlgari has allowed each one to continue working in its existing premises and to retain its experts and directors, because if it ain’t broke, why fix it? The contemporary Diagono Aluminium collection, launched in 1998, is a case in point of this adventurous spirit of innovation with its daring contrasts of materials and colors through the alliance of aluminum on the case and black rubber on the bezel, which is imprinted with the double Bvlgari logo. This mixture is continued on the bracelet made of black rubber matched with aluminum links and buckle, while the seconds hand sporting a hint of red is quickly visible among the black hour and minute hands. Not only was the timepiece innovative, but also its accompanying advertising strategy, which saw a replica of the Aluminium painted on the fuselage of a Boeing 747 operated by Italy’s national carrier, Alitalia.
A descendant of the popular Aluminium line was the Diagono Titanium, first presented in 20O5, showing a strong and distinct color combination, but turned on its head, with lightweight and resistant titanium used on the case and bezel, and titanium and black rubber links for the bracelet. Backtrack a little and we discover that the Diagono collection is actually an amalgamation of four existing sports lines: Aluminium, Chrono, Sport and Scuba. Grouped together under the Diagono umbrella in 2OO1, they share similarities in case design, inclination of the bezel and the use of high-tech materials. Key to the design of the Diagono line is the repeated Bulgari logo on the bezel drawn directly from the Bvlgari-Bvlgari line — so powerful is this signature decoration that it has been effectively adapted to sports watches. The chronographs of the Chrono line created in 1988 feature quartz movements and mechanical functions, while the Sport collection of 1994 showcases automatic movements, black dials and luminescent indexes — functional, sporty and masculine, yet resolutely classically elegant watches that have evolved from the earliest Bvlgari-Bvlgari watches.
All Bvlgari timepieces embody the same spirit of excellence and pursuit of quality, each imbued with the watchmaker’s touch and the result of the hours of devotion that their creators have spent on them, produced and tested under the strictest and most rigorous of Swiss criteria. The Diagono collection is no different with its sports -inspired touch that highlights robust design, technical originality and high performance. Though the line is iconic, it has not seen much of an evolution over recent years, until now, where we are witnessing a relaunch of the name because of its striking forms that are able to leverage on the highly technical nature of its complications. The label Diagono stems from the signature oblique cut of the bezel based on two diagonal lines, and the sporty origin of the word “agon”, taken from classical Greece, meaning nobility and the pleasure of competition. Perhaps testimony of the superhuman strength of the gods from Greek mythology, such as Theseus and Heracles, who found much delight in challenging others to great displays of force, and a tribute to founder Sotirio Bvlgari’s Greek roots, the brand’s early style was influenced by Greek and Roman classicism. Innovation in material usage is also a distinguishing trait of the line, where we find powerful combinations of titanium, gold, aluminum, rubber, steel, diamonds and leather.
The Scuba models, known as Diagono Professional, pay homage to the divergent worlds ofthe sea, air and earth and are fitted with complicated movements — suitable for the everyday use of wearers with active lifestyles who don’t wish to overlook elegance in the process. In 2004, we bore witness to the Diagono Professional GMT Flyback featuring a GMT chronograph movement with flyback function that allowed for three different time zones to be exhibited simultaneously, and, in 20O7, to the Diagono Professional Scuba Chrono for scuba diving professionals, who collaborated on its development, a watch equipped with a COSC -certified chronograph with flyback function that pairs a rubber strap with gold, stainless steel or a steel-gold combination. This year, we find the Diagono Tourbillon in platinum, limited to just 30 pieces, sold to the tune of 125, OOO Swiss francs and worth every penny, for it captures what Bulgari does best — pairing the epitome of high Swiss watchmaking through the use of a sophisticated tourbillon movement with a refined and confident yet sporty look that speaks volumes of its Italian heritage. PURE. CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN DESIGN Since the early 20th century, Bvlgari timepieces have been coveted by the European elite and aristocracy, appreciated for their contemporary, pure and bold design.
After the Second World War, Bvlgari design moved away from the strict disciplines of the dominant French school and began to form its own style inspired by Greek and Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. Today, its watches exude a very Italian design whose extravagance is tempered by a taste for a more discreet elegance; we find bold volumes, curved contours, well-balanced forms and clean, distinct lines. Bvlgari designers have understood the essence of great design, creating an object that is not only beautiful to look at, but reliable and functional to the touch, and thus may spend close to a year perfecting the appearance of a new timepiece, starting from an original sketch or 3D file. For the Diagono Tourbillon, a brief was received from the Bvlgari marketing department at the design center in Rome, run by a design director with six years experience in the automotive industry.
Therefore, not only is he of a creative mindset, but he also already begins thinking about issues of practicality and industrial production at the initial design phase. We discover the use of generous proportions on the Diagono Tourbillon, and a certain roundness characteristic of the Bvlgari-Bvlgari case, which is a flawless cross-section of a cylinder. Its sweeping elliptical and sculptural forms remind us of the Coloseum, evoking a stylishness befitting of architectural harmony, while its muscular aggressiveness calls forth the gladiators of ancient Rome battling against man and animal, where one false move can mean the difference between life and death. The designers have considered the appropriateness of every aspect and the combination of uncommon materials and colors to best show off the authenticity of each component.
This necessarily goes through a number of rounds with the marketing and technical departments to find the best way to translate an idea in an object for industrial production and to take into account the needs of the consumer, perhaps increasing the size of the case slightly or making alterations to the degree of water resistance. It is a delicate balancing act to find the most appropriate middle ground between the requirements of the design center and marketing department, which does its best to accommodate the wishes of its design counterparts to allow the free flow of original ideas and sidestep constraints due to technical restrictions. BULGARI TIME - DELVING INTO THE WATCHMAKING HQ With abase in Neuchatel by the name of BulgariTime, established in the early 19803 to control the creation, production, assembly and testing of all Bulgari watches by a workforce of 500, it is the nerve center maneuvering and strategizing the takeover of some of the most formidable Swiss names with centuries of experience in the crafting of high-end watch components.
It is the heart of a scattered manufacturing unit, bringing together and exploiting the potential of the technical expertise of the four companies, while adding its management and brand enhancement capabilities and financial strength, all made easier through the running of a centralized computer system, which allows for the exercise of greater control over every little detail involved in the creation of a watch. This permits the sharing of information between all actors of the project, as each department inputs its documents and indicates the status or completion of a certain activity to keep everyone updated and on the same page. For the Diagono Tourbillon, the technical-product development department takes care of alterations between the design from Rome and the viability of crafting the piece, creating models of the initial drawings from the designers, transforming them to incorporate the movement, thinking about technical and esthetic performance and industrial production — essentially the site where a sketch becomes a watch. The dial is one of the most complex parts and thus requires numerous series of prototypes.
A metal prototype of the case and bracelet may require a period of between two to three weeks to produce, while the use of stereolithography, a rapid and highly accurate prototyping technology that creates a three-dimensional object from a computer image using a computer-controlled laser to build up the structure layer by layer, would put a plastic watch on your wrist in two days, for internal use only. The design of each component, and research into the use of innovative materials, product, pricing and marketing strategies are expanded on at Bulgari Time, as well as the assembly of nearly all watches bearing the Bulgari name in the assembly ateliers, where work is divided into specific tasks, including placing dials onto movements and then inside cases and attaching straps — all performed by hand. The conducting of quality controls and technical tests is extremely strict, the quality concept being paramount in all watch activity as it forms part of Bulgari’s DNA. Every timepiece, therefore, is put through its paces by a battery of stringent tests during production and again by the simulation of extreme conditions to make certain that every piece in the line has been properly crafted. This happens before the planning phase; then, after the creation of components; and, finally, following the assembly stage before the launch of the watch.
The quality of every component is ensured by each individual who has worked on it and then checked by the Bulgari Quality Control Department using high-tech equipment when it arrives from various sources to root out any imperfections and ensure that the highest benchmarks are reached. This includes plunging components into saltwater for checks of corrosion due to salt and adverse weather conditions; subjecting components to intense ultraviolet radiation to test for color fading due to exposure to the sun’s rays; and not forgetting actual crash tests to guarantee the anti-shock abilities of each timepiece. Resistance, non-allergic properties, precision and reliability of mechanical systems must be guaranteed. Finger, based in Lengnau, Switzerland, and housing 17 employees, was founded in 1889 and creates cases in steel and precious metals for complicated and high-end watches. Recently acquired by Bulgari, we discover its exquisite craftsmanship skills used on the case of the Diagono Tourbillon, a Bulgari watch demonstrating the first example of the integration of Finger.
On this occasion, Finger has crafted a 42 -mm brushed platinum case with the limited edition number engraved on the side, platinum being a heavy, malleable and corrosion-resistant precious metal. Often used in fine jewelry, lab equipment, electrical contacts and as a catalyst in fuel cells and automobile catalytic converters due to its wear- and tarnish-resistant and exceptional high-temperature qualities, it is more precious than gold and associated with exclusivity and wealth because of its extreme rarity, which is said to have made King Louis XV of France pronounce it as the only metal fit for a king. This is an effortless display and affirmation of Bulgari’s distinguishing signature as it has managed to repeatedly match the most unusual of materials and hues with success. The Diagono Tourbillon is no different as it elegantly harmonizes the gray-white platinum of the case with the pink gold of the indexes, hands and seconds track, and the black gold finishing of the movement, as viewed through the transparent caseback. Though formerly diagonal, the bezel is now flattened and gives pride of place to the iconic engraved double Bulgari logo, which has been a mainstay in the Bulgari-Bulgari line since 1977, though this time the logo has diminished in size and become subtler for an understated statement.
Staying faithful to the design of the Diagono case, the case makers have employed highly complicated engineering procedures to ensure the cutting of the circular contours, the precision of angles including the shaping of the crown and its protector, the accurate fitting of the lugs that attach seamlessly to the strap for a profiled look that maintains the lines, the integration of the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal front and see-through caseback, and the engraving of legal hallmarks and model reference numbers on the back. On the head of the crown, we find a specially cut inclined groove, which finds echoes on the screws and lugs. An indispensable part of the timepiece is the dial that engages the viewer. In this case, Cadrans Design (in which Bulgari has a 51 percent stake) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, leader in the creation of unique and small series avant-garde dials for complicated and luxury watches, of which Bulgari has been a client before, has this time lent its expertise to the Diagono Tourbillon.
First, the technical blueprint and description are received, with indications of all elements, including thickness and dimensions, which must be esthetically and technically validated, involving discussions with the design center and technical department before drawings of each stage are prepared. Next, a die bearing the image of the dial’s design from which multiple copies will be imprinted is created by an external die maker, with the outline of the tourbillon window correctly milled, and the tracks made separately. The imprinted dial in gold or brass then undergoes a black oxidation bath through the process of galvanoplasty, the process of coating with a thin layer of metal by electrochemical means, and covered with a layer of varnish to suppress the oxidation. This is followed by washing, drying, surface treatments and finishing. The accurate positioning of the dial, marks, logos, engravings and contours of apertures must be ensured; indexes, minutes and seconds tracks and hands, attached properly and run parallel to the surface, then polished and cleaned — a meticulous interplay of manual topography. Checks are also implemented almost after every stage.
Cadrans Design’s internal competence has resulted in the Bulgari -manufactured three-dimensional multi-layered dial in an oxidized black color with radial and azure treatment for the Diagono Tourbillon, which provides an incredible play of light and depth. Pink ($N) gold-plated indexes, including the imposing number ” 12 “, and a seconds track encircling the visible tourbillon, which may be viewed at six o’clock, are hand applied with extreme care and just the right dose of pressure. This is then embellished with skeletonized, structured brass pink (sN) gold-plated hands. The minutes track offset to 12 o’clock is rhodium-plated and provides the effect of two intersecting circles contained within the larger sphere of the bezel. DANIEL ROTH ET GERALD CENTA HAUTE HORLOCERIE - INTO THE HEART OF THE WATCH For something as important as the movement of the Diagono Tourbillon, nothing is left to chance and thus the experts in the manufacture of high-end complications are called upon — none other than Daniel Roth et Gerald Genta Haute Horlogerie S.A. based in Le Sentier, whose specialist watchmakers effortlessly craft grande and petite complication movements, making Bulgari one of the few companies in the world with this ability available in-house.
It is an exercise of unimaginable precision that scrupulously tests the watchmaker’s skill and perseverance. Roth and Genta is the center of development for all the complicated movements in watches made by the Bulgari Group, and a team is committed to creating movements and modules solely for Bulgari, often using Girard-Perregaux and Frederic Piguet base calibers. Perhaps one day down the line, it may even develop its own base movements for Bulgari watches and achieve full autonomy in the crafting of movements. For now, the talent of Roth and Genta remains in developing Bulgari “s in-house calibers, the first being for the Bulgari-Bulgari Grandes Complications Tourbillon. A computerized system allows the company to follow the progress of all pending projects over the next five years, as it continues in advancing the complexity of complications on offer in the future. For the Diagono Tourbillon, a simplified sketch and the constructor’s specifications were received at Daniel Roth et Gerald Genta Haute Horlogerie, and computer-designed models created to visualize the functioning of the movement.
The use of high-performance machines for the cutting, shaping and decorating of the movement components is mixed with the hand of the watchmaker in the application of procedures including angling, smoothening, perlage and cleaning. An in-house manual-winding mechanical movement, the caliber BVL 200, comprising 2OO components and requiring hours to diligently assemble, powers the timepiece. The movement features a power reserve of 64 hours, weighs 15.9g, with diameter of 28 mm and thickness of 4.38 mm, while the elegant black gold finishing is adorned with Cotes de Geneve, perlage and the Bulgari logo, which uses traditional haute horlogerie techniques, though innately Italian in their expression. Turn the movement over and we are enticed by the dance-like movements of the tourbillon and power reserve indicator. At Roth and Genta, master craftsmen are skilled in the assembly of complicated movements, each the result of the tireless work of a single watchmaker and his kit, individually able to assemble the movement without guidance and fit it inside the case. Assembly requires approximately one and a half months, followed by 15 days of quality controls. PRESTIGE D’OR — WRIST MECHANICS Encircling the wrist for long periods at a time, comfort is of primary importance for the watchstrap of the Diagono Tourbillon.
Here, we encounter a fine, highly resistant yet extremely soft black alligator leather strap that meets the standards of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, and blends well with the case for a streamlined look. The strap is completed by a secure and comfortable polished platinum two-blade folding clasp made by Prestige d’Or, located in Saignelegier, an authority in the production of steel and precious metal straps in small and large series for top-end watches. About 60 people work here and once the technical plan has been received, the crafting of the prototype begins, including sourcing for the most precious and high-quality metals, casting, machining, washing, welding, finishing, assembly, polishing, quality control and packaging. An incredible amount of work is performed by hand, with each person responsible for checking the quality of the part on which he or she has worked, followed by a final inspection performed by the quality control department before the bracelet is sent to Bulgari. Established in 1989 by an Italian jewelry watchmaking industrialist, Prestige d’Or was purchased four years later by Jean-Claude Probst, who has now spent 19 years working with Bulgari.
The modern factory that Prestige d’Or currently occupies has been operational since January 2OO2,, and so detailed is it that after one component of an assembled metal strap is polished, a biodegradable red resin is applied over it to protect it from being scratched as the next surface is being polished. In the Diagono Tourbillon, a two-blade instead of three-blade folding clasp was chosen because of its refinement and exclusivity for complicated watches. Newly developed for the Diagono collection, this particular buckle will be used for subsequent lines. A fitting conclusion to the Diagono Tourbillon, which reunites Bulgari’s satellite of companies for in-house case, dial, movement and bracelet making, enabling us to view the enormous amounts of handcraftsmanship mixed with just the right amounts of technology that go into the creation of each watch.
This vertical integration strategy is fundamental to Bulgari successfully repositioning itself to allow it to establish a respected identity in the world of haut de gamme watchmaking as it moves progressively upmarket. Consequently, it’s curtains up on a new era of mechanical haute horlogerie for Bulgari as it boldly combines the best of the world of Swiss watchmaking with the long-cherished art of Italian design — essentially continuing age-old practices that are the epitome of modern luxury today, where products are individual and crafted with passion.
Hublot Replica Watch
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Warranty: 10 Day
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What does it mean if I was told I “over wound” my watch?
You really can’t “over wind” a watch, at least not without taking out a pair of pliers and really cranking on the winding crown well past the point of it being hard to turn. If you have been told that your watch is “over wound”, it means one of two things:
- The person who told you that the watch is over wound doesn’t know what they are talking and isn’t honest enough to admit it.
- The person who told you that the watch is over wound either doesn’t want to try and fix it, or can’t fix it and isn’t honest enough to admit it. They are also willing to make it sound like it is your fault by saying that “you over wound it.” Either way, you can take it as a sign that you should never try to have a watch repaired by them and that you should always go somewhere else.
Watchmakers who blame problems on a watch being over wound are like car mechanics who blame problems on gas tanks being over filled. Most people would laugh if they were told their car’s flat tire was caused by over filling their gas tank, but they accept a broken roller jewel as being caused by over winding. There are many reasons why a watch won’t run, just like there are many reasons why a car won’t run. Neither a car with an empty gas tank nor a watch that is wound down will run. If cars didn’t have fuel gauges, I suppose that most people would at least try filling the gas tank first, just like most people try winding the watch first. Being the last person to fill the gas tank doesn’t mean you broke the car, nor does being the last person to wind the watch.
How often should I get my watch serviced?
If you are going to use the replica watch on a daily basis, you should get your watch serviced when you first get it and every couple of years there after. Water resistant watches can usually go 3-5 years, but if want to count on it being water resistant, you should have the seals checked every year. You shouldn’t wait for your watch to stop working before servicing it any more than you would wait for your car to stop working before changing its oil.
If you aren’t going to use the replica watch, you should have it inspected to make sure that what you got was what you thought you were going to get. There are pros and cons involved with having a watch in your collection cleaned. Every time a watch is worked on, there is a certain risk that something will be broken or lost. Many cleanings will also dull the finish on the parts, and this is especially true for damaskeened and two-tone finishes. Cleaning will often also clean off some of the paint in the lettering on the movement. And, of course, there is the added expense of having a watch cleaned.
On the other hand, a cleaned and oiled watch is less likely to rust or have corrosion from gunk on the metal. They aren’t making any new replacement parts for antique watches, so If your watch needs parts now, you are more likely to get it fixed now than in the future.
You should also immediately get your watch cleaned if the insides (movement) ever gets wet, or even if you just see moisture forming on the inside of the crystal. Don’t trust the “water proofing” on replica wrist watches, treat them like pocket watches and non-water resistant wrist watches. Water resistant watches can actually be worse because the gaskets and seals wear out and end up trapping water inside instead of keeping it out.
Most replica watches can be fixed, but rust is the #1 killer of watches. Watches need to be cleaned whenever the oil has broken down or when there is too much dust and dirt on the gears. It used to be said that watches should be cleaned every year, but the quality of the oil has improved and most people don’t live in as dirty an environment as they did when people used horses to get around town and heated their homes with coal.
Dust will act as an abrasive and grinds away the metal. This increases friction, both by making the surfaces rough and also by changing the shape and position of the gears. The gears are designed so that the teeth roll on each other, instead of sliding. Once the right shape is worn away, they will never be as good. In general, the older the watch, the poorer the job the case will do in keeping the dust out. Water resistant watches, even when the seals no longer keep out water, tend to do a good job of keeping out dust.
Care of your New Watch
Like any other fine quality watch, water does damage. Avoid submerging your watch or wearing it in the shower. Although your watch is manufactured with proper O-rings and gaskets. Water may still make it’s way into the casing, usually, due to crowns not fully seated.
All automatic watches require servicing sooner or later. A good tune up will ensure a long lasting watch. Quartz battery operated watches typically need a new battery every two to three years. ( to save battery life make sure the chronograph stop watch is not running when not in use) Any watch repair shop should be able to service your watch.
Sizing your watch
For metal bands we recommend that you take the watch to a watch repair shop. They should be able to size the watch for you for about $5.00. Leather band watches are sized differently depending on the security clasp. If you have any questions please email us and we will walk you through it.
You can find misc. new and used watch bands at www.thewatchprofessionals.com they can even special order replica watch bands for you. If its available, they can get it for you.